Bodegas Monteabellón Verdejo 2009 (£12.50 Quaff Wine Merchants, Berry Bros & Rudd)
White Bordeaux meets white Burgundy, with the musky pear skin and smoky tinned pear of the former and the creamy minerality of the latter, just let down by a slightly bitter finish. B

Bodegas Naia K-Naia 2009 (£9 The Sampler, Noble Green Wines, Woodwinters, D Byrne, All About Wine)
Smells as if it’s going to be fresh and zippy – it is, but it’s also fuller in body than you expect, with quite voluptuous tinned pear, rhubarb and plum flavours and vibrant citrus acidity to keep it all together. S(-)

Tresolmos Verdejo Lias 2009 (£7.95 The Wine Society)
Quite full, like Sauvignon without the shriek, has similar plum and tinned pear flavours plus a subtle bread-dough nuttiness from the lees, fleshier than the K-Naia, and very tasty. S-

Bodegas Naia Naia 2009 (£11 Woodwinters, Highbury Vintners, Define Food & Wine, Halifax Wine Company, Noel Young)
Shows a creamy nuttiness, and herbal tinges – fennel, lemon verbena – alongside the citrus and pear fruit. Fuller and weightier than its baby brother K-Naia, but lack the joyful bounce. S-

Belondrade y Lurton Quinta Apolonia Vino de la Tierra de Castilla y León 2009 (£12.99 D Byrne, Harrogate Fine Wine, The Ledbury Wine Cellar, Planet of the Grapes)
Still in short pants, this shows luscious plum, rhubarb, pear and citrus fruit and hints of toffee, woodsmoke and vanilla, with oak and acidity providing the framework that will help it to improve for another year at least and age for a further two beyond that. S

Belondrade y Lurton Rueda 2007 (£26.50 Antique Wine Co Ltd, Amphora Wines, Decorum Vintners, Fortnum & Mason, Fino Group, Planet of the Grapes)
Extremely classy but desperately young wine, takes the exotic vanilla, pear, peach, rhubarb and plum flavours of its baby brother (see above) and adds in creamy hazelnut characters and mineral complexity. But needs another couple of years minimum. G-

Bodegas Naia Naiades 2007 (£20 Handford Wines, Great Grog, Conwy Fine Wines, Define Food & Wine, All About Wine)
There’s something akin to Alsace Riesling in this delicious wine, with a slatey minerality and notes of petrol alongside the lively bouncy fruit and smoky toasty edges. A fascinating contrast with the Belondrade y Lurton – both are great wines. S+