Keith Tulloch Semillon 2010 (£12 Highbury Vintners, The Good Wine Shop, Noel Young Wines, D Byrne, Noble Green Wines)
Interesting mix of the zesty lime & lemon and pithy greengage with more exotic tropical fruits like paw-paw and pineapple, all the while with an undercurrent of bracing, even briny minerality. S-

Keith Tulloch Semillon 2009 (£12 Highbury Vintners, The Good Wine Shop, Noel Young Wines, D Byrne, Noble Green Wines)
Similar flavours to 2010, and while the extra year has given a more rounded character, it feels if anything, thanks to its upright spine as if this will outlast it. S(-)

Glenguin Old Broke Block Semillon 2006 (£10 Bibendum, www.slurp.co.uk)
Showing something of the toasty hazelnut and creamy custard characters of age and even a little Alsace-Riesling-like petrol note. Again, the fruit flavour combine the zesty with the exotic, but it’s just a little hollow for real class (B(+)

McWilliams Mount Pleasant Elizabeth Semillon 2005 (£9.99 Wine Rack)
Classic combination of honey-on-toast and hazelnut richness with spine-tingling citrus, greengage and a touch of the tropical. Long and tasty, but still young – a bargain. S

Tyrrell’s Vat 1 Semillon 2003 (~£25 Fortnum and Mason, Fine & Rare Wines, Handford, Harvey Nichols, Harrods, Highbury Vintners, Planet of the Grapes, Amps Fine Wines, Hailsham Cellars, Hoults Wine Merchant, Oxford Wine Company, Roberts and Speight)
Very young, svelte, high-cheekboned wine, with an almost savoury, brine-like note to the guava and citrus flavours. Toastiness and nuttiness just starting to appear, but this is still way short of its peak. G-

Peter Lehmann Margaret Semillon 2004, Barossa Valley (£12.50 Enotria)
A fuller, fleshier style than the Hunter wines, with similar toasty honeyed/nutty notes and a touch of kerosene, but also more richness & roundness, plus some smokiness that a you’ll see on the video I thought was from oak – but it hasn’t been anywhere near a barrel! Young and vigorous, and thanks to its backbone of acidity and minerality, plenty of life ahead of it. S(+)