Castèllo Solicchìata 2011, Sicilia, Italy (£22 Laithwaites)
Slightly rustic volatile aroma initially but this diminishes with time to show Morello cherry and blackcurrant flavours pepped up with hints of tar and leafy tobacco. Fresh finish, but there’s a slightly dry, raisinny feel, as if some of the grape were a little shrivelled and overripe. Decent rather than really fine. B(+)