‘Flor de Vetus’ Toro 2010, Spain (~£13.99 Liberty Wines)
Bold but fragrant young wine, with bags of dusty dark blackcurrant, blackberry and loganberry fruit given interest by perfumed/spicy vanilla notes, a light toasty edge and a sappy, happy finish. Richly flavoured, but retains some freshness. S-

Emina Pasión Ribera del Duero 2009, Spain (£12.99 Ocado)
Starts well with rich plummy berry flesh and notes of spice, dusty herbs and vanilla-tinged oak, but then there’s just a slight hardness to the finish that diminishes the pleasure. B

Vetus Toro 2007, Spain (~£18.99 Liberty Wines)
A bit shy to start with, but opens up to show plush, plummy berry flesh tinged with vanilla. Good but there’s a slightly baked character that speaks of overripe fruit, something borne out by the just-too-dry finish – I prefer its little brother. B+