Beronia Colección Rioja Tempranillo 2010 (£11.99 Ocado)
Young, fresh style, bouncy but not too brash, with an herby/spicy tinge to its slightly earthy orange peel and red berry flavours, and touches of coffee and chocolate too – just let down by slightly forceful smoky-bacon-y oak. B+

The Society’s Rioja Crianza 2008 (£6.95 The Wine Society)
Soft, mellow style, vanilla toffee, relaxed red fruit and a touch of spice, not huge concentration but a nice drink. B(-)

CVNE Imperial Rioja Reserva 2004 (£14.99 selected Co-operative stores)
Classic style, sweet coconut and vanilla oak propping up the gutsy red berry and citrus peel flesh, with herbs, spice and something of the leathery edge of maturity, maybe finishes a touch dry for real stardom, but very tasty. S

Finca Constancia Parcela 23 Tempranillo 2010, Vino de la Tierra de Castilla (£10.99 Rolling Wines, Adam Fine Wines)
Big hearted wine, rich, round, and full-blooded with a slightly sweet/jammy note to its juicy blackcurrant flavours, good but not subtle, will appeal to those who enjoy beefier Aussie Shirazes. B(+)

Matarromera Ribera del Duero Crianza 2008 (£25 Majestic, The General Wine Company)
I don’t mind the sweet dark fruit aromas and earthy presence of oak, but there’s a meaty edge of brettanomyces, which is taking the freshness out of the concentrated fruit flavours, and drying out the finish. Left this open for a couple of days to see how it evolved, and for me it never hit a sweet spot. B