Noval 10 Year Old Tawny (£18.99 Waitrose, Ocado, Fortnum & Mason, Tanners, Roberson, Cambridge Wine Merchants, Oxford Wine Company, Luvians, Fine Cheese Company)
Raisins, citrus peel, Christmas cake spices and a touch of walnut combine with an old furniture aroma to tasty effect. Showing the gentleness of maturity, but still has a spirity kick. S(-)

Quinta do Noval Colheita 1997 (£39 Ocado, SH Jones, Simply Wines Direct)
If anything, tastes younger than the 10 year old tawny, with an almost whisky-like kick of wood and spirit. The fruit’s fresher too, with red berry and cherry flavours mingling with the treacly raisinny roundness. S(+)

Graham’s LBV Port 2007 (£13.32 Waitrose, Sainsbury’s, Co-op, Morrisons, Asda, Tesco, Booths)
Feisty young wine with fire in its belly, packed with juicy berry, cherry, damson and sloe flesh pepped up with hints of violets and black pepper. B+

Noval LBV Port 2005 (£18 Ocado, Lea & Sandeman, Cambridge Wine Merchants, Fine Cheese Company, General Wine Company)
Shedding some of the exuberance of youth, but still bold and fruity, with kirsch, berry and raisin flavours, notes of violets and chocolate, and a seductive finish that manages to be both fresh and juicy AND savoury and mellow. S