Casillero del Diablo Brut Reserva NV, Limarí, Chile (£7-11 Morrisons, Waitrose, Ocado, Tesco.com, yourfavouritewines.com)
Rather classy fizz, quite full in flavour with hints of apple crumble and a toffee-ish richness, but then a seam of minerality and zesty acidity kicks in, ripe but refined, great value. S-

Miguel Torres Pinot Noir Brut NV, Curico, Chile (£11.99 Partridges, Shepherd Foods, Taurus Wines, Remarkable Wines, www.vintagemarque.com)
A bit more obvious than the Casillero, dry but rather broad, with red berry flavours and a dusting of cocoa, OK, but no extra mile. B

South Ridge Brut 2008, Sussex, England (£19.99 Laithwaites)
Young and fresh, with quite delicate green apple and pear flavours, plus a richer, creamier nutty bread dough character and a hint of honey. Would like to see this in three years’ time. S(-)

Huia Blanc de Blancs Brut 2004, Marlborough, New Zealand (£19.20 Bibendum)
Rich, very winey style, with almost cidery apple, pear and pineapple fruit, and notes of yeasty bread dough and hazelnuts, but running through it all is a rather stale cheesiness that is hard to ignore. Hmm… B-

Champagne Besserat de Bellefon Cuvée des Moines Brut Millésime 2002, France (£41.99 contact Lanson International for stockists)
Older than the Huia but has far more life and élan. Has some brioche-like yeasty development, along with some notes of chocolate and hazelnut, and there’s a real daintiness to the crystallised pineapple and apple flavours. Good for another five years at least. S