El Patito Feo Graciano Roble 2009, Navarra, Spain (£8.99 Virgin Wines)
Slightly boisterous youngster at the present, but calms down to show pure, plush blueberry and blackberry flesh, a fresher raspberry edge, notes of clove and new leather, and a warm dusty finish. B+

Tesco Finest* Viña Mara Rioja Reserva, Spain (£9.49 Tesco)
More dusty Spanish warmth here, with a coconutty oak and spice layer on top of vigorous red berry and orange peel flavours, showing a touch of mellowness, but still the backbone of juicy acidity and tannin that will keep it going for another couple of years at least. S(-)
Tesco is holding its annual Wine Fairs this autumn in Edinburgh (15/16 Oct) & London (22/23 Oct). Tickets are normally £10, but Drinking Outside the Box fans can get 4 Sunday tickets for the price of 3 at any Fair. Book now – call 0845 330 5072 or visit www.tescowinefair.com and quote TWF-SW-11

Can Rafols Gran Caus 2001, Penedès, Spain (£19.99 Virgin Wines)
Again, there’s that warm, dusty terracotta tile edge, plus soft berry fruit and tinges of vanilla. However, it’s lost its freshness and bounce, and now feels just a little too angular for real class. B(-)