McWilliams Mount Pleasant Isabelle Chardonnay 2010 Tumbarumba, New South Wales (£9.99 Waitrose)
Refreshing, fruity style, a mix of citrus (tangerine/clementine) with stone fruit (apricot/nectarine/plum) with a light veneer of smoky toasty oak, ripe but sleek, with a slightly briny tang on the finish. B+

Thorn Clarke Mount Crawford Chardonnay 2010, Eden Valley (~£11 Alliance Wine)
Fuller, peachier style, with nutty/leesy notes, but has tang and freshness, and touches of herbs and minerality. Still feels slightly coiled, and in need of another year or two to show its true mettle. S-

Heggies Vineyard Chardonnay 2010, Eden Valley (£13.99 Berry Bros & Rudd, Premier Vintners, The Wine Society, Majestic, Broadmarsh Wines, Eldwick Post Office, Nidderdale Fine Wines, Oliver & Bird, The Wine Chambers)
Grown up wine, initially (as you’ll see from the video) suggesting it’s a little on the oaky side. However, with time, the oak calms down and the rest of it opens up, revealing a mealy/leesy edge, subtle plum, citrus and nectarine fruit set against spent match complexity, and a fine minerality on the finish. Good on Day 1, better on Day 2, even better on Day 3 – when I finished it off… S(+)

Yalumba Wild Ferment Chardonnay 2008, Eden Valley (£10.99 Eagles Wine, N D John, Nidderdale Fine Wines, S H Jones, The Bottleneck, House of Menzies)
A little brother of the Heggies, this has the same similar citrus and nectarine notes (with ripe green apple in support), plus the nutty, leesy character and a fresh finish. Classy style at this price. S(-)

Yalumba FDW7c Chardonnay 2009, Adelaide Hills (£17-£18.50 Noel Young, Gwinology, Hoults)
A different style from the previous two, cooler and sleeker, with apple and citrus tinged with touches of nectarine, has the spent match and mealy notes, with some toasty oak in the background, but overall it’s the tingling spine and elegant minerally finish that make the biggest impression. S+