Piccini ‘Orange Label’ Chianti 2010, Tuscany (£6.99 Sainsbury’s)
Fruity youngster that wouldn’t object to 20 minutes in the fridge before serving, with vibrant plum and cherry freshness, a touch of almond, some spice & herbs, and just the right amount of tannic bite to the finish. B(+)

Umberto Cesari Yemula Sangiovese/Merlot IGT Rubicone 2008, Emilia-Romagna (N/A in UK – RRP ~£22)
Peculiar wine, with a soft, smoky oak sheen and some soft berry fruit, but the main impression is of coffee and vanilla tinged with some volatility – reminds me of Tia Maria! C+

Umberto Cesari Liano Sangiovese/Cabernet Sauvignon IGT Rubicone 2008, Emilia-Romagna (£21.99 Hallgarten Druitt)
Shares the same Tia Maria/vanilla/coffee style as the Yemula, but has a little more structure and more evident fruit – blackcurrant and cherry. B-

Umberto Cesari Sangiovese di Romagna Riserva 2008, Emilia-Romagna (£14.99 Hallgarten Druitt)
The savoury sour cherry kernel and blackcurrant edge of Sangiovese comes through here, but – again – let down by that clumsy volatile vanilla note. B

Tenute Costa Terre di Fiori ‘Ventaio’ Morellino di Scansano 2008, Tuscany (£30-£35 Grossi Wines, Club Vini Italiani )
Plush, warm, friendly wine with an almost Burgundian undergrowth allure, has generous cherry, red berry and damson fruit, quite exotic floral and fresh vanilla bean aromas, ripe tannins and a juicy come-hither finish. S+

Umberto Cesari Tauleto IGT Rubicone 2004, Emilia-Romagna (£36.99 Hallgarten Druitt)
There’s a touch of the volatility that was in the Cesari 2008s, but here it’s in balance with the earthy mineral, cherry (flesh and skins), blackcurrant and damson fruit and the note of cola. Still on the chewy side, with just a hint of green tannin, but decent, ever-so-slightly rustic wine. S(-)