Beronia Dos Maderas Rioja Crianza 2008 (£10.99 Ocado)
Has freshness and bounce, and reasonable spicy berry flesh, let down by slightly sawdusty oak – not sure whether it wants to be ancient or modern. B-

Torres Rioja Crianza ‘Ibéricos’ 2008 (£9.99 Waitrose, www.vintagemarque.com, Oriel Wines, Eagles Wines, Magnum Wine Company, Mitchell Vintners Ltd, Peake Wine Associates, Penistone Court Wine Cellars, Polygon Wines, Portland Wine Company, Roberts and Speight Ltd, Soho Wines, Vintage House, Yorkshire Vintners)
A round, rich and confident style, with vibrant, even refreshing plum, berry and orange peel fruit pepped up by notes of dusty liquorice, and with a warm, almost meaty edge to the finish – slightly rustic, but good rustic. S(-)

Bodegas Artadi Rioja Viñas de Gain 2008 (£19.45 Jeroboams)
Can’t fault the intensity here – bags of blackberry, dark plums and damson, with oak giving vanilla plushness, and hints of juniper and orange peel adding further layers, but I get the feeling that it’s trying just that bit too hard to impress. S-

CVNE Rioja Reserva 2007 (£13.99 Majestic)
A traditional, meaty, old-fashioned style (bretty in other words), with steamy plum, red berry, spice and vanilla flavours, some citrus freshness and a warm herby finish. Good but lacks the extra mile. B(+)