Vigneti Trebbio 2010, IGT Toscana, Italy (£21.50 Butlers Wine Cellar, Imbibros, Duncan Murray Wines)
Warm-hearted wine that has shed its youthful perkiness and is now entering early middle age. There’s a warm, dusty, almost Spanish feel to the ripe cherry and berry flavours, along with a hint of vanilla, but the light touch of Cola reminds you that this is Sangiovese-based. Supple, juicy and tasty wine, just on the right side of rustic. S-

Tolaini Chianti Classico Riserva 2010, Tuscany, Italy (£32.50 Vini Vivi)
Lovely young wine, rich and not afraid to show a powerful face, but alongside the dusty tannins, intense blackcurrant and cherry kernel fruit and vanilla-tinged oak, there are notes of herbs, fresh acidity and a cool earthy mineral note to provide freshness. Impressive now, but with its best still to come. S(+)

Cedro do Noval Vinho Regional Duriense 2009, Douro, Portugal (£16 Cambridge Wines, Berry Bros & Rudd, Ocado)
The warmth of the Douro comes through strongly in this bold but never too brash red. While it’s rounded, rich and spicy, with dark berry, blackcurrant and damson fruit, plus a touch of roast meat (from the Syrah maybe), there’s also freshness and herbiness, and no lack of tannin to balance. Intensity and complexity without too high a price tag, what’s not to like? S(-)