Ribeiro Santo Dão 2009 (£10.60 Bottle Apostle)
Juicy young wine, fresh but firm, full flavoured but never too big, with plummy berry and tomato flavours, smoky bacon oak and an earthy, savoury finish – gets more serious with time. S(-)

Sogrape Callabriga Dão 2008 (£12.95 Berry Brothers & Rudd)
Sprightly young wine, with spicy white pepper freshness, but also some mellow spicy edges, has juicy dark fruit with a plummy core, a hint of brown sugar and pork-fat-friendly tannins. S-

Quinta da Falorca T-Nac Dão 2007 (£13.99 Armit)
Another one with a steamy, savoury meaty style (a bit like young Bandol), rounded fresh earthy berry fruit and a stalky, spicy intensity, poised but with lots of power, punch and panache. S(-)

Sogrape Callabriga Dão Reserva 2005 (£18.00 Stevens Garnier)
Hmmm. Seems like there’s reasonable fruit here, but there’s also the minty/medicinal edge of brettanomyces, drying out the fruit, and spoiling the party. C+

Filipa Pato Beiras Lokal Calcario 2005 (£26.60 Bottle Apostle)
Maturing beautifully, has laughter lines rather than wrinkles, relaxed fragrant red berry flesh enlivened by touches of leather, pepper, iron, tar and liquorice, gentle, confident, and still plenty of life ahead of it. S+

Quinta da Falorca Dão Reserva 2004 (£19.99 Armit)
Reasonable plummy fruit, but this is marred by a slightly dry, old-fashioned dusty/woody character, which overrides the fruit and results in a wine without any vibrancy. B-