Samos Co-op Anthemis 2005, Samos, Greece (£7.50/half The Wine Society)
The classic barley sugar and grapey headiness of Muscat are joined by gentle floral and fresh vanilla edges. Sweet and sticky, in a fruit-cake-y way, but still has some zesty orange peel acidity to keep it fresh. B+

Warre’s Otima 10 Year Old Tawny Port, Portugal (£12.50-£14 per 50 cl Tesco, Asda, Morrison’s, Waitrose)
Classic fruit cake flavours – dates, walnuts, figs, raisins – are joined by a more exotic aroma that reminds me of (yes) mahogany furniture and shoe polish. Rich and warming, but finishes with a fresh spirity bite. S(-)

Blandy’s Duke of Clarence Rich Madeira, Portugal (£11-£12 Sainsbury’s, Asda, Tesco, Waitrose, Morrisons)
Has the coffee and vanilla medicinal/herby sweetness of Tia Maria alongside the more typical Christmas cake character. Just a touch sweet & simple for real class. B

Harvey’s Pedro Ximénez VORS Sherry, Spain (£20.22 per half litre Waitrose)
Opinions will vary on whether this is too much of a good thing. What can’t be denied is its massive sticky intensity – think tiramisu with a creamy treacle toffee and balsamic vinegar sauce and sprinkles of dark chocolate on top. Or Buttercup Syrup on steroids. S(+)