A to Z Oregon Pinot Gris 2009 (£12.49 Bibendum)
Simple, honest glugger, slightly candied peach and pear flesh and a pumice-like terroir edge to add interest, but just a little bland. B

WillaKenzie Estate Pinot Gris 2010, Willamette Valley (£22 The Wine Treasury, Amathus, Slurp, Luvian’s, Harrods, Roberson, D. Byrne)
Quite full in body with a smoky vanilla sheen from the oak, and with a wealth of apple, citrus and stonefruit flavour kept in place by a precise minerally backbone. S

Firesteed Oregon Pinot Gris 2009 (£15.99 Whole Foods Market, The Good Wine Shop, Jascots Wine Merchants, Christopher Piper Wines)
Dumb initially but opens up to show some smoky peach fruit, and touches of cream and spice, perfectly respectable, but just a little simple. B

Willamette Valley Vineyards Pinot Gris 2009, Willamette Valley (£20 The Wine Treasury, Slurp)
There’s some exotic Alsace-style spicy grapiness here (a dollop of Muscat is included in the blend), dry and rich but (again) simple and a little too easy-drinking for real class. B+

Duck Pond Pinot Gris 2009, Willamette Valley (£15 The Wine Treasury, Tanners)
Another exotic one, with spicy floral aromas that promise well, but then the flavours, while gentle and peachy, need more acidity to keep them from going wobbly. B

Sokol Blosser Pinot Gris 2009, Willamette Valley (£15.35 Caves de Pyrene, Slurp)
Has rounded, juicy peachy plushness, plus notes of musky pear and a creamy/nutty leesy edge, but (unlike some here) there’s also a spine of mineral and acidity, and your mouth is left entertained. S-