Mas Belles Eaux Mourvèdre Vin de Pays d’Oc 2009, France (£14.99 Bennetts Fine Wines, Robin Greatorex Wines, Noel Young Wines, Vin Neuf, Lockett Bros, Aitken Wines, Slurp.co.uk)
Decent plummy suppleness, with savoury hints of herbs and spice, but there’s also a dried/cooked fruit and raisinny character and an absence of the wildness I’m looking for. B

Mas Belles Eaux Vieux Carignan Vin de Pays de Caux 2010, France (£14.99 Bennetts Fine Wines, Noel Young Wines, Vin Neuf, Lockett Bros, Aitken Wines, Slurp.co.uk, Halifax Wine Company)
More feisty than the Mourvèdre, combining fresh plum and berry flesh with notes of violets and herbs, a slate-like stoniness and a meaty/feral character. Good now, but the backbone of tannin and acidity suggests it’s got plenty of life ahead of it. S(-)

Leeuwin Estate Art Series Shiraz 2009, Margaret River, Australia (£26-£28 Domaine Direct, Beaconsfield Wine Cellars, Butlers Wine Cellar, Fortnum & Mason, Four Walls, Theatre of Wine)
Confident young wine with flavours of blackcurrants, blackberries and plums, hints of mint/eucalypt and no shortage of smoky oak. I sort of like it, but the fruit’s a little sweet, and I can’t see great complexity. B+

Edmeades Zinfandel 2009, Mendocino, California (£17.99 The Wine Library, Hedonism Wines, The Vineyard, Halifax Wine Company, Upton upon Severn Wines, Hailsham Wines, Noel Young, Harrods, The Wine Shop, Telford Wines, Soho Wine Supply, Handford, Vintage House)
Jumps out of the glass in all its brambly, spicy glory, has the classic underripe/overripe character of Zin – light stalky freshness alongside the berry and plum jam flavours – and a friendly, smoky finish. S(-)