Leeuwin Estate Prelude Chardonnay 2008, Margaret River (£20.50 Domaine Direct)
Rich but refined style with tangy apple and nectarine flavours set against a creamy leesy richness. More forward than the Art Series bottling, but still a classy mix of richness and restraint. S-

Xanadu Chardonnay 2008, Margaret River (£12.85 AG Wines, Selfridges, Slurp.co.uk, Stony Wine Emporium, Oakdene Fine Wines)
A little toasty to start with, but this calms down, allowing the funky wild spent-match and quite rich citrus, apple and pear fruit to shine through. Still needs another year or so to reach its peak, but very tasty now. S

Henschke Croft Lenswood Chardonnay 2007, Adelaide Hills (£26.00 www.thedrinkshop.com, www.winedirect.co.uk, Swig)
There’s little to dislike here – pithy lemon and pear flavours, subtle oak, a touch of hazelnut and a juicy finish – but it feels just a little conventional after the two Margaret River wines. B+

Yering Station Reserve Chardonnay 2005, Yarra Valley (£34.50 Harper Wells, AG Wines, Quaff Fine Wine Merchants, Quintessentially Wine)
Now six years old, but still in fine fettle. Has that wild/sulphury spent-match edge, vibrant peach, guava and mango flesh, a touch of toastiness and a taut minerally finish. S+