Niepoort The Senior Tawny Port (£18.99 Lea and Sandeman, Bottle Apostle, Butlers Wine Cellar, Duncan Murray)
Hovering at a very attractive stage between freshness and maturity, this combines lively fresh red berry flavours with more relaxed caramel, raisin, walnut and mellow old wood characters. Very tasty S(-)

Taylor’s 10 Year Old Tawny Port (£23.00 Costco, Booths, Majestic, Morrisons, Sainsbury’s, Selfridges, Tesco, Wholefoods Market, Waitrose)
Quite sweet and rich, showing what seems to be a smoky new wood imprint alongside rather young (for 10 yo tawny) plump plummy fruit, and with a spirity kick to the finish. S-

Fonseca 10 Year Old Tawny Port (£15/50cl Ellis of Richmond)
A more mellow and harmonious style than the Taylor, less of the fresh fruit and more of the figgy raisin, walnut and seasoned wood character. Juicy round and supple, very quaffable. S

Taylor’s 20 Year Old Tawny Port (£38 Harrods, Selfridges, Waitrose, Costco)
Gentle, mature and fresh, with an orange peel zestiness livening up the figgy, leather raisin, walnut and mahogany furniture flavours, rounded warm welcoming style, smooth and velvety, intense and tangy. S+

Fonseca 20 Year Old Tawny Port (£38 Fortnum & Mason)
One of those wines you’d be happy to just sit and sniff for a long time, this is dainty on its feet with a floral lift, as well as the orange peel tang I found in the Taylor. Classic fig, nut and old furniture flavours, but there’s also something more exotic in here – crystallised pineapple? Pure, harmonious, complete wine, quite delicious. G