Tinpot Hut Steam Wharf Road Syrah 2008, Hawkes Bay, New Zealand (£14.99 Tesco)
As with many Hawkes Bay Syrahs, this starts well with lovely aromas of clove, pepper and vanilla, but then you wonder whether there is enough fruit to prop up the aromas. Here, there is – blackberries, plums and more – plus notes of leather and liquorice. Just let down by a slight jammy edge. B+

Doña Dominga Single Vineyard Shiraz 2010, Colchagua, Chile (£7.49 Waitrose)
Bounds out of the glass with bold dark berry and blackcurrant flavours pepped up with a hint of liquorice, but there’s also a medicinal note, a slightly baked character and the tell-tale reduction of Chile. OK but just too loud? B

Mitchelton Shiraz 2010, Victoria, Australia (£14.99 Tesco)
Ripe and juicy but never jammy, rich and hearty, but still with peppery freshness to its rich berry and damson flesh. Broad-shouldered but with a slim waist, a good honest drink. S

Bellingham The Bernard Series Basket Press Syrah 2010, Coastal Region, South Africa (£10.99 Tesco)
Rounded, rich and chocolatey, there’s a touch of VA but it’s in balance with the plush plum, berry and even peach flavours, while the finish is honest, earthy and seductive. S(-)
(Said I preferred this to the Mitchelton in the video, but the Mitchelton grew on me…)

Chateau Crès Ricards Terrasses du Larzac ‘Stécia’ 2010, Languedoc, France (£14.99 Old Butchers Wine Cellar)
A true son of the soil, this sets rich berry (red and dark) flesh against herby peppery aromas and notes of tar, coal ash and warm earth, ripe and fragrant, but with many layers of flavour, a backbone of gritty tannins, an excellent finish and plenty of potential. S(+)