Champagne Canard-Duchêne Charles VII Grande Cuvée Le Victorieux NV (£35 Majestic)
An odd mix of honeyed biscuity maturity with rather tart green apple immaturity, not hugely classy, but honest and quite tasty B

Champagne Moët & Chandon Brut Imperial NV (£28.99 widely available)
Rather heavy, earthy style, does have some citrus, pear and apple flavours, but not very complex, and on the scrawny side. C(+)

Champagne Veuve Clicquot Yellow Label NV (£32.99 widely available)
A more rounded and confident style, again not majoring on complexity but offering satisfying ripe green apple and pear flavours with a touch of nougat and quite an elegant finish. S-

Les Pionniers Champagne 2004 (P&C Heidsieck) (£22.99 selected Co-operative stores)
Another with elements of young and old, this combines vibrant, crisp apple and citrus freshness with bready maturity, and finishes in nutty confident style. B+

Champagne Thiénot Brut 2004 (£38.95 Corks Out)
Starts off showing its sleek and elegant face, with floral citrus notes to the fore, then a richer, almost creamy/buttery side reveals itself, along notes of pineapple and toasted almond. Nice wine, and good for another few years. S