La Castelia Prosecco NV, Veneto, Italy (£11.99 selected Co-operative)
Slightly vague, confected style, touches of apple and little stony character, but not great. C-

Follador Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore Extra Dry 2010, Veneto, Italy (£14 Oddbins)
Just off-dry, but still a precise, fine-boned style with the tangy apple, citrus and just-ripe peach flavours underpinned by stony minerality, has freshness, bite and life. S-

Chapel Down ‘Chapter Two’ 2008, Tenterden, England (exclusive to Roast restaurant)
Fresh and bracing, with reasonable lemon zest and a touch of red berry, but the smoky elderflower note speaks of underripeness. C+

Champagne Moët & Chandon Grand Vintage 2002, France (£39-£55 widely available)
Broad-shouldered, rich and (melba) toasty, lovely citrus and crystallised pineapple flavours pepped up with yeasty, biscuity hazelnut notes, not the most elegant of Champagnes, but I love its ruddy honest flavour. S+

Champagne Billecart Salmon Cuvée Brut Sous Bois NV, France (£56-£65 James Nicholson, Bottle Apostle, Corks Out)
Feels like there are two wines here – a fat creamy one with buttery malolactic notes and peachy flesh, and a crisper, more refined one with green apple and citrus notes. The two elements do come closer together with time, but for me it slightly misses out on the joy, and is ultimately intriguing rather than really classy. S-