Washington Hills Merlot 2008, Columbia Valley (£6.49 The Co-op)
Overripe with rather hard baked blackberry character, concentrated but overdone, should have been picked earlier and made with less force. C(-)
Powers Merlot 2006, Columbia Valley (£10.99 – £11.49 Handford Wines, Wines of the World, Bottle Apostle, Hennings Wines, Rodney Densem, Michael Jobling, Wildflower Wines)
Still a touch overripe, but there’s more freshness to the currant and blackcurrant flavours here, along with touches of tar and leafy tobacco. B
The Magnificent Wine Company House Wine 2007, Columbia Valley (~£7.99)
Simple and fresh to begin with, again with the fruit flavours in that baked berry and tar spectrum, but it’s let down by a rather crude vanilla character, and finishes sweet & simple. C
The Magnificent Wine Company Steak House Cabernet Sauvignon 2008, Columbia Valley (£9.99 The Co-op)
More of that bimbo vanilla, but there are also a touch of mint to liven up the baked dark fruit chracter. Again, intense but overripe and overextracted. C+
Powers Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon “Champoux Vineyard” 2006, Horse Heaven Hills (£26 Handford Wines, Wines of the World, Bottle Apostle, Hennings Wines, Rodney Densem, Michael Jobling, Wildflower Wines)
This is more like it, there’s intensity here but it doesn’t feel forced. Powerful, plump plummy blackberry flesh, notes of green olives and herbs, and with authentic vanilla oak character. S(-)
Andrew Will Champoux Vineyard 2006, Horse Heaven Hills (£40 Berry Bros & Rudd)
Classy, exotic wine, again not trying too hard, with smoky oak wrapped around polished blackcurrant and blackberry flesh, and some mealy/nutty notes from barrel-aging. Lovely silky tannins, but still feels young and vigorous, with plenty of potential. S+
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Proof I guess that it really is true with USA wines – you get what you pay for judging by the lower scores for the cheaper wines.
True Colin – I long for those heady days of the early 1990s when Fetzer made decent cheap wines
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