Wakefield Estate Riesling 2014, Clare Valley, Australia (£13 Wright Wine Company, Denby Dale Wines, Oliver’s Beer and Wine, Oz Wines)
Still has its youthful tension, with zingy citrus fruit and a stony spine, but there’s also juiciness, with what I call a dusting of icing sugar – you know the stuff on the outside of dolly mixtures? – even though it’s a dry wine. Tasty now but very promising. S(-)

Wakefield St Andrews Riesling 2010 Clare Valley, Australia (£20.99 Oz Wines)
Settling into middle age very nicely, with the citrus flavours now coming over as crystallised orange and preserved lemon, that icing sugar (see previous wine) becoming a little more caramelised, and a honeyed, petrolly edge of maturity. Plus a note of hay – not sure where that came from… But certainly a very tasty wine, rich but still tense, ready to drink but still with bags of life ahead of it. S(+)