Have given the same mark (a low silver medal) to all three of these wines, even through they are all different. Try the first two with shellfish, last one with fleshier fish – and don’t be afraid to have a little heat in the food…

Condes de Albarei Rías Baixas Albariño 2013, Spain (£11.95 Ellis of Richmond)
A bit shy to start with, then starts to show off first floral-edged citrus fruit and eventually richer, more exotic vanilla, peach and nectarine flavours. Lots of flavour, but always that taut freshness, plus a light spritz to keep it all fresh and clean. S-

Viña Cartin Terras de Lantano Rías Baixas Albariño 2013, Spain (~£15 importer Hayward Brothers)
Interesting tasting this after the previous wine. There’s more sulphur dioxide here, so it’s even dumber and shyer to begin with, and that SO2 makes it come across in svelte, river-pebble-y style – some would call it minerality. But once that blows off, you get a very similar wine, with the fresh and the exotic mixing to impressive effect. S-

Maior de Mendoza 3 Crianzas Rías Baixas Albariño 2012, Spain (£12.45 Moreno Wines)
A year older, and those heady vanilla and peach edges have been joined by hints of pineapple juice. But once again, those rich flavours are bolstered by a lovely fresh backbone, with a bracing saline bite adding to the party. S-