Barone Ricasoli Brolio Chianti Classico 2012, Tuscany, Italy (£17.49 The Bottle Stop, The Wine Chambers, Wine Store at No 4, Lewis and Cooper, Cambridge Wine Merchants, Italian Continental, Southwick Court Fine Wines, Noble Green Wines, Four Vintners, Flagship Wines, Pallant of Arundel, Hedonism, Dike and Son)
This is all about fresh perky fruit, with blackberry and black cherry to the fore, a note of mint and an earthy floral character too. Juicy and refreshing, almost chillable. S(-)

Brolio Riserva Chianti Classico Riserva 2010, Tuscany, Italy (£27.49 Wine Store at No 4, Cambridge Wine Merchants, Lancaster Wine Company, BJR Hanby)
2010 wasn’t the warmest of vintages, but this borders on the overripe, with a raisinny character almost like a Ripasso Valpol. It’s gentle and generous, with a sweet, warm, puddingy quality to the berry and cherry flavours, and a touch of smoky oak too, but I’d prefer more finesse and freshness. B+

Castello Di Brolio Chianti Classico Gran Selezione 2010, Tuscany, Italy (£44.99 Hedonism, Hailsham Cellars, winedirect.co.uk,  The Wine Chambers)
Still a pup. When I tasted it for the video, this was in rather stubborn mode, with intense rich flavours, and the oak taking centre stage, but over the next few hours, it relaxed into its bottle, allowing more gentleness and spice to come out, and for the fruit – herb-tinged cherry and blackcurrant – to emerge. Classy stuff, but quite a way off its peak. S(+)