Champagne H. Blin L’Esprit Nature Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut NV, France (£40 Wine Cellar Club, The Secret Cellar)
Young, fresh style of Champagne, which sees quite voluptuous baked apple, stewed rhubarb and brioche flavours wrapped round a slender, steely/stony mineral backbone with a chalk note to the finish. Very good. S(+)

Champagne H. Blin Blanc de Noirs Brut NV, France (£30 Wine Cellar Club, Oddbins)
Rounder, plumper style, still with a slender frame, but the flavours are richer, deeper and toastier, with a (dry) burnt sugar edge to the cooked apple and citrus flavours, and an aromatic hedgerow character and a fresh, poised finish. S(-)

Champagne H. Blin Brut Millésime 2008, France (£33-£37 Wine Cellar Club, The Secret Cellar, Oddbins)
Again that combination of richness and sleekness, but here there are chocolate and cocoa edges to the toasty richness, with the fruit flavours still in evidence but taking less of a starring role. More of a food Champagne but I wouldn’t say no to a glass by itself… S