Leeuwin Estate Art Series Sauvignon Blanc 2009, Margaret River, Australia (£15.99-£18.99 Domaine Direct, Fortnum & Mason, Highbury Vintners, House of Menzies, Luvians Bottle Shop, Uncorked, Winedirect)
Quite light in body but full of flavour – smoky, nutty tinned pear, like Bordeaux Sauvignon, plus tangy, flinty Loire-like gooseberry character. Crisp but luscious, with bouncy vibrancy and an almost spicy finish. S(-)

Gladstone Sauvignon Blanc 2009, Wairarapa, New Zealand (£10.75 Great Western Wine)
Another grown-up wine, with rounded, confident flavours of apricot, plum, greengage and rhubarb, and an undercurrent of clay-like minerality. S-

Wild Rock Infamous Goose Sauvignon Blanc 2009, Marlborough, New Zealand (from £9.99 The Vineking, General Wine Co, George Hill, Ann et Vin, Bablake Wines, Bon Coeur Fine Wines, Cartwright Brothers Vintners, Flourish and Prosper, Taurus Wines, Wine Rack, Windermere Wine Store, New Zealand House of Wine)
Starts off seeming simple and lemon-jelly-ish, but then opens up to show more interesting bracing, briny flavours of zesty citrus, gooseberry and green apple, crisp but fleshy. B+

Graham Beck Pheasants’ Run Sauvignon Blanc 2008, Coastal Region (£11.25-£12.49 Bibendum, everywine.co.uk, sawinesonline.co.uk)
There’s a nice bit of lime custard character, but the intense grassy green pepper character dominates the wine – distinctive, but not a style I want to encourage. C