Sturdy stuff, perhaps not the perfect wine for this time of the year unless you’re in the southern hemisphere

Plaimont Producteurs Madiran Réserve des Tuguets 2012, South West France (£11.99 Tesco)
Smells soft, fruity and puddingy – think warm berries and cherries, with a hint of eggy sponge – and while the flavours are similar, they veer towards the baked, and there’s also a whack of smoky vanilla-scented oak which isn’t quite in balance with the rest of the wine. OK, and I’d probably have a second glass with some duck confit, but not fine, and misses out on the perfumed side of Tannat. B-