Think there was a better, gentler wine to be made here…

Orben Rioja 2009, Spain (£23.99 Eton Vintners, Charlie Crown, Grape & Grind, Scarlet Wines, The Jolly Vintner Too, The Cellar at Clevedon, Aitken Wines, WoodWinters, The Fine Wine Company, Winedirect.co.uk, Thedrinkshop.com)
Starts off rather big and oaky, and remains large (it’s 14.5% alcohol) throughout. The oak does subside, allowing the ripe, dark berry and damson flavours to show through, along with a dry brown sugar character – in other words brown sugar flavour but not sweetness. But…there’s also a slight raisinny character, plus a light burning sensation from the alcohol. Will impress some people but I find it just a bit overripe, just a bit overextracted, just a bit too oaky and just a bit vulgar. B