Hunter’s Miru Miru NV, Marlborough (£13.95 Jeroboams)
Nice solid, toasty style, quite winey, shows pineapple and apple flavours with notes of chocolate limes and wafer biscuit, ripe but still refreshing and refined. S(-)

Cloudy Bay Pelorus NV, Marlborough (£13.99 Harvey Nichols, Waitrose, Harrods, Fortnum & Mason, Philglas & Swiggot, Majestic Wines, Adnams, Cambridge Wine Merchants, Peckham & Rye, Lea & Sandeman, Berry Brothers)
Fresher, livelier style, smells simple, but then opens up to give a complex richness, again with that pineapple and chocolate lime character, honest and rich but still refreshing. S-

Cloudy Bay Pelorus 2006, Marlborough (£18.99 Sainsbury’s, Harvey Nichols, Harrods, Fortnum & Mason, Philglas & Swiggot, Majestic Wines, Adnams, Cambridge Wine Merchants, Peckham & Rye, Lea & Sandeman, Berry Brothers)
A more subtle, restrained version of the NV, with extra layers of yeasty richness, still with lots of fruit –  pineapple with a touch of strawberry – refined and classy. S(+)

Morton Blanc de Blanc 2000, Marlborough (£15.83 Corks Out)
Showing its age, with classic yeasty/brioche richness and a light cheesy note, has red apple, pear and pineapple flavours, a dusting of cocoa and a subtle, slightly savoury finish – fizz for food. S+