Robert Mondavi Cabernet Sauvignon 2007, Napa Valley, California (£19.99 Majestic – in most stores)
Quite exotic, with sweet roasted ripe plummy berry fruit, a hint of black olive, and oak a touch toast but nicely in balance, clean, fresh style, scores by not aiming to caress rather than impress (unlike the Emblem). S(-)

Michael Mondavi Emblem Cabernet Sauvignon 2007, Napa Valley, California (£26 Bibendum)
Bit of a bruiser, sweet, round and fleshy but just too corpulent for its own good, and there’s a touch of VA too. There’s a stand-off between the Calvados-like oak and the slightly galumphing plum and blackberry liqueur flavours. Nothing refreshing here. B(+)