Not Kipper Tie, as in what Noddy Holder enjoys as liquid refreshment. No, here, I’m talking about those wines that you hardly ever drink at home, but instantly go for when you see them on a list. I can’t remember ever cooking kippers in my current abode – I’m married to an anti-kipperite – but whenever I see them on a breakfast menu, I’m straight in there.

So, kipper wines…. For me, they’re probably old wines. Not classic old wines, but humble bottles that you wouldn’t normally think of ageing. So if I find a list that has old Beaujolais, Muscadet, Valpolicella, Alsace Pinot Gris, Cotes du Rhone and others of that ilk, I’ll happily shell out for them. Sometimes they’re past it, but a lot of the time they’re surprisingly good, and attractively priced too.

However, I’d draw the line at having them with my breakfast kippers…