A second batch of wines to celebrate German Riesling Week – the first one is here and there’s now a third one here.
Dr L. Riesling 2010, Mosel (£6.99-£7.49 widely available)
Tightly-wound youngster, plenty of earthy ripe red apple and orange flavour and tense minerality, excellent value. B+
Schloss Lieser Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Kabinett 2009, Mosel (£9.73 Justerini & Brooks)
Awkward style – like J J Prüm, feels as if it doesn’t want to be tasted until 3/4 years from vintage. But delve beyond the pondy volcanic edge and there’s exquisite mineral and slate character, ripe nectarine, apple crumble and orange flesh and a vibrant, juicy finish. Work in progress. Potentially S(+)
Robert Weil Riesling Kabinett 2009, Rheingau (£12.64 Justerini & Brooks)
A wine that makes you want to run into the street and sing castrato-style. Wonderful high-cheekboned style, with confident mandarin – flesh and peel – and nectarine flavours, an earthy mineral undercurrent, and a svelte, panther-like finish. G-
Weingut Meulenhof Erdener Treppchen Riesling Auslese 2009, Mosel (£14.20/£12.75 during Riesling Week Tanners)
Quite backward, then the exotic mango, pineapple, ripe citrus, even paw-paw kick in, with a dollop of cream to boot. Yes, it’s sweet, but there’s plenty of zesty character to hold it together, and it’s only going to get better with time. S
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