Never tried Georgian wine? Can’t say I’ve had much if it myself, but this week sees the launch of The Georgian Wine Society (www.georgianwinesociety.co.uk) – here’s how I got on with four of their wines…

Teliani Valley Tsolikouri 2005 (£8.99)
Slightly nutty/toasty edges, clean and fresh, a light floral perfume, still fresh, but doesn’t feel like it has the oomph to go on much longer. Slightly neutral finish. C

Teliani Valley Napareuli 2005 (£10.39)
There’s a slightly charred edge here, quite decent cherry and raspberry fruit beyond that, but that burnt/charred edge takes over the wine. Needs freshness. C-

Orovela Saperavi 2004 (£14.99)
Meaty cherry and berry with a backbone of tannin and acidity, reminiscent of Bairrada, with that mixture of prominent structure and fragrant, meaty flesh. Oak now receding, leavivng the wine to sing; still young, promising wine. S

Marani Khvanchkara 2005 (£12.99)
Apparently a wine that was a favourite of Stalin.  Strange, rotty/dusty edge here, almost like asbestos, but then the fruit emerges, with red cherries, redcurrants and lychees, and a delicate floral perfume. Made from those well-known grapes Alexandrouli and Mujuretuli. Intriguing wine, like some of those Piedmontese oddities, bring on the blue cheese. B