Champagne Comtesse de Bellefleur NV, France (£29.99 Laithwaites)
Rich with a slight nuttiness, but it looks like that richness seems to come from high dosage rather than extended aging or a good base wine. OK, but not much class. C(-)

The Society’s Champagne Brut (Alfred Gratien), France (£29.50 The Wine Society)
Quite a bold style, with mouthfilling pineapple, citrus and rhubarb flavours, and toasty yeasty notes too, but the fresh, tangy finish holds it all in place. S-

Codorníu Selección Raventós Cava NV, Spain (£9.99-£11.99 Waitrose, Majestic)
The typical preserved lemony earthiness of Cava is given some fatness by a dollop of Chardonnay, and there are some honeyed, toasty aged characters in here too. Good but not great. B

Arras Grand Vintage 2005, Tasmania, Australia (£21.99 Oz Wines)
Looking very fresh for its age, with perky lemon and lime adding zestiness to richer peach and brioche flavours. Fruity but subtle, with a nutty bite, and a richness that comes from ageing rather than sweetness. Fizz for food, although it tastes pretty good by itself. S