So here I go, how long can I survive on just Big Brand Wine? I’m aiming to pour myself a glass of two different wines each night I’m at home. And yes, it is just me – Jill will be drinking whatever she likes. Tonight she’s on Mud House 2007 Sauvignon Blanc which is a cracker – watch out for it in the Wine & Spirit First Taste column sometime soon. Meanwhile, I’m on 2 Californian Chardonnays….

Blossom Hill Chardonnay 2006
They say: ‘Melons and apples with a hint of smooth vanilla…this full flavoured white is perfect anytime, or with rich chicken, salmon, or vegetable dishes.’ (I love that – ‘perfect anytime OR…’ – is there some occasion that ‘anytime’ doesn’t cover?)
Anyway, Simon says: actually, it’s a struggle to say anything about it. Long ago, I stopped writing notes on wines that didn’t want to tell me anything – what’s the point? This is inoffensive, slightly off-dry wine that tastes like it comes from a factory rather than a vineyard. I’m not looking for the nearest plantpot, but neither am I looking to have another sip.

Gallo Sycamore Canyon Chardonnay 2006
A little more crispness, a little more fruit (yes, some apples here), a little more character, but again, it’s difficult to summon up much enthusiasm. I’ll be having another sip of this, but there’s not much in my glass, and if/when it becomes empty, I won’t be having a refill. But the bottles won’t go to waste – my mother-in-law** hoovers up wines like this.

To finish on a more positive note, what I will say in both wines’ favour is that neither is oversweet, nor over oaky – I wouldn’t have said the same five years ago.

**anagram of Woman Hitler