Cru Beaujolais from two renowned Burgundian négociants (Louis Latour owns Henry Fessy). 2012 wasn’t the easiest of vintages, so how did each fare?

Bouchard Père et Fils Fleurie 2012, Burgundy, France (£11.99 Waitrose)
There’s a peppery edge to the fresh, almost crunchy raspberry fruit, but there’s also a stalky aroma that, when you come to taste it, pans out as just a hint of rot (geosmin for those who know the term), – it’s not centre stage, and it doesn’t take away all the pleasure, but it does add a dry dusty note. C+

Henry Fessy Brouilly 2012, Burgundy, France (£11.99 Waitrose)
Quite firm style, not afraid to show some chewy tannin, but this is balanced by fleshy cherry fruit, a touch of red berry and an earthy herbal character to the finish. Good for at least another 2-3 years. S-