Three different Chardonnays, three different countries, three different styles…

Champ Divin Côtes du Jura Chardonnay 2013, France (£15.60 Tanners)
Sets precise citrus fruit against muskier pineapple and hazelnut flavours, and adds is flor-like élevage elements for good measure. Lovely fresh, complex style, shames many similarly-priced Burgundies. S

Torres Gran Viña Sol 2012, Penedès, Spain (£11.49 Auriol Wines, Celtic Wines, Great Horkesley Wines, Italian Continental, Lancelot Wines, Mitchells Vintners, Vintage Marque)
Broad in character, and maybe just a little too squishy round the midriff, with not quite enough bite to balance the rich pineapple, peach and cashew flavours. B-

Sol de Sol Chardonnay 2010, Malleco, Chile (£19.95 Winety)
A rather disjointed style, has lost the bounce and verve of youth, leaving a slightly gawky skeleton of acidity, and while there’s a pleasant mealy note, there’s not enough flesh on those bones. B-