A wine that will divide opinions

Champ Divin Pollux Côtes du Jura 2009, France (£17.20 Tanners)
An assault on the senses, almost like a cross between plump Chardonnay and cider that has then been infused with lots of briny/yeasty character, along with nuances of herbs and fennel. Intriguing, certainly, but If I have a problem with it, it’s that it falls between two stools – I’d prefer it either tamer (as in the Champ Divin Chardonnay HERE) or weirder, with the flor edge making its presence felt more strongly. Hard to score this – it’s either silver medal or zero, depending on your outlook…