Segura Viudas Brut Reserva NV (£8.99 Oddbins)
Earthy lemon aromas, quite pleasant toasty notes, but then the finish is just too sweet and a little flabby. OK, but lacks crispness. C+

Raventós i Blanc L’Hereu Brut Reserva 2007 (£14.99 Hamilton Yorke, Handford, Martinez, Davy’s Wine Shop, The Vineyard, SWIG)
Dry, crisp, serious and seriously good style, toasty/biscuity with smoky lemon fruit and a fine-boned finish. Really good. S(+)

Raventós i Blanc Gran Reserva de la Finca   2005 (£21.99 Hamilton Yorke, Handford, Martinez, Davy’s Wine Shop, The Vineyard, SWIG)
A slightly clay-like minerality here, again lemon (and citrus peel), with some of that bready complexity, and there’s also a hint of cocoa. Rich but dry, and while there’s some yeasty maturity, it still feels young. S(+)

Raventós i Blanc de Nit Brut Reserva 2007 (£17.99 Hamilton Yorke, Handford, Martinez, Davy’s Wine Shop, The Vineyard, SWIG)
The fresh, earthy edge and biscuity bite of the l’Hereu, but infused with red berries, lovely balanced style, with plenty of fruit but also elegance and zest. Walks over most Champagnes at twice the price. S