Holy yum with sprinkles on the top. Apologies for my absence in recent days, but I’ve been regalvanised by a glass of Chateau Guiraud** 2005. No, not the sumptuous sweet wine from said establishment but the G de Guiraud Bordeaux Sec, available for £8 from Majestic, and more than worth every penny. Heady, rich, with more lemons in there than an X-Factor audition, this is wine to serve to those reared on New World wines who complain that they find European whites either lean and tart, or excessively bland and flabby. This is a wine that is stretching the waistband of its kecks, but by dint of its sherbet lemon intensity manages to get away with it. Lobsters are thin on the ground in Saddleworth, but this is the sort of kit I’d want to roll out with said beasties. In their absence, this is perfect fish and chip wine – hold the vinegar.

** was going to add in a link to their web site, but for English speakers, it’s one of those that falls down as soon as you follow a few links – Google it if you want more info, but don’t be surprised if it’s not very useful.