Torres Natureo Muscat 2009 (£5.99 Waitrose, Booths, Partridges, Soho Wines)
Clean, fresh and grapey, but you get the feeling that there’s something missing – donut wine… C(-)

Domaine Laroche Chablis St Martin 2009, Burgundy, France (£15.99 Liberty Wines)
Classic Chablis, has the waxy lanolin and orchard fruit characters in balance with tangy zesty acidity apple & creamy mineral notes, also a slight spritz. S(-)

Sylvain Mosnier Chablis 1er Cru Beauroy 2008, Burgundy, France (£20.42 Corks Out)
The almost-oily pineapple chunk aroma makes you think this is going to be almost too rich and ripe, but then the creamy, nutty side emerges and the stern backbone appears. Has length, power and intensity and really grows on you. S

Sainsbury’s Taste the Difference Grüner Veltliner (Markus Hüber) 2009, Lower Austria (£6.99 Sainsbury’s)
Has a zesty almost Sauvignon-like edge but there’s also stony minerality and bracing grapefruit and pineapple flavours – think flat Lilt without the sweetness, rich but restrained. S-

Beblenheim Pinot Gris 2009, Alsace, France (£8.99 Waitrose)
Quite rich, with candied peel and dried fruit flavours – papaya, pear and an earthy creamy edge but slightly simple. B-

Some of these prices date from before the VAT rise, so the wines may now be more expensive