M&S Bordeaux Merlot 2008, France (£6.29 Marks and Spencer – they’ve moved on a vintage since I tasted this)
Simple, gentle wine with a leafy edge to its plum, berry and blackcurrant flavours and just a hint of mint humbug. C+

Château de Pitray Côtes de Castillon 2006 (£8.99 Majestic)
More of the same leafy black fruit but this is both fresher and warmer hearted, with a smoky oak influence, touches of tar and brine and a backbone of (ripe) tannins from the fruit and the oak. B+

Château de Lussac Lussac St Emilion 2002 (£14.24 Tesco)
Showing some plummy, leathery maturity, along with a touch of tomato and a slightly roasted character, but there’s still enough generous plump fruit to keep you coming back for more. B(+)

Château Filhot Sauternes 1999 (£18.99 per half Oddbins)
Lovely Seville orange marmalade nose along with a note of barley sugar, sweet with a creamy nutty honeycomb richness, but never cloying thanks to the grippy citrus acidity. S(-)