Hugel Muscat Tradition 2008, Alsace, France (£10.95 The Wine Society)
Lovely crisp, grapey style, delicate yet full in flavour, fresh and forward with notes more on the floral than the spicy side, wonderfully moreish with a musky finish. S-

Gladstone Pinot Gris 2008, Wairarapa, New Zealand (£13.95 Great Western Wine)
Full, fleshy and solid – too weighty maybe? No shortage of flavour – spice, marmalade, lemon jelly, creamy toffee and peach (both fresh and tinned) and also a touch of ginger but lacks freshness, and finishes a little lumpen. B(-)

Crossroads Pinot Gris 2008, Hawkes Bay, New Zealand (£9.50 Mentzendorff)
Not as heavy as Gladstone, and better for it. Still quite full in body, with floral aromas, ripe pear and tangy orange flavours, good texture and a crisp, balanced finish. B(+)

Léon Beyer Pinot Gris 2008, Alsace, France (£13.50 The Wine Society)
Spice, rose petal and lychee, almost Gewürz-like, with heady strawberry and ripe peach  (remember Fruit Salad chews?), weighty but kept in check by acidity and minerality, clean, precise finish. S-

Viñalba Torrontes Seleccion 2009, Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza, Argentina (£7.99 – was in Sainsbury’s)
Intensely flavoured, with abundant lime jelly, spice, ginger and orange peel character, but it’s almost too perfumed for its own good, and you’re left with a slightly blobby feel in your mouth. C+

Crossroads Gewürztraminer 2007, Hawkes Bay, New Zealand (£9.50 Mentzendorff)
Reasonable pear, lychee, rose petal and jelly, folavours, also a touch of spice but there’s no freshness or vibrancy to balance. Should be on a younger vintage by now. B-