A quick look at some wines from two of the most famous Champagne houses (click the PJ links by all means, but the site’s full of tedious Flash graphics…)

Champagne Mumm Brut Rosé NV (~£38 widely available)
Interesting blend with showing both fresh red berry fruit with some toasty maturity, hints of cocoa and dry yet juicy finish. B+

Champagne Perrier-Jouët Blason Rosé Brut NV (~£35 widely available)
Softer and fleshier than the Mumm, with a floral character, toasty/yeasty notes, Victoria plums alongside the strawberry and raspberry flesh and again a touch of chocolate. S-

Champagne Mumm Mumm de Cramant Brut Chardonnay NV (~£50 widely available)
Warm-hearted, come-hither style showing the gentleness of maturity, warm bready honey, blossom and honeysuckle aromas and broad fruit flavours – pineapple, ripe red apples and chocolate limes. Not exactly subtle, but very pleasing style. S

Champagne Perrier-Jouët La Belle Epoque 2002 (~£70 widely available)
Neither as forward nor as yeasty as the Mumm de Cramant, but more intense and precise and elegant, with notes of dark chocolate, honey, spring gardens, crystallised fruit and burnt sugar. Elegant and svelte, but certainly not size zero. Delicious G-

Champagne Mumm Cuvée R. Lalou 1998 (~£110 widely available)
First thing you notice is a definite sour yogurt-like cheesiness on the nose. Get past here and you find a complex wine, with minerally red fruit alomst like something from the Côte de Beaune, and touches of herbs, spice and cocoa. Intriguing and exotic, definitely one to serve with food, just wish they could rein in that cheesy note. S(+)