So just how much of an effect does terroir have in Châteauneuf du Pape? Many thanks to Maison Ogier for sending me a quartet of 2007s from different vineyards. As you’ll see, the soil makes quite a difference to the flavours of the wines…

Ogier Châteauneuf du Pape 2007
The blend throughout was roughly 75% Grenache and 15% Syrah with Mourvèdre and/or Cinsault making up the balance. The wines were made in similar (fairly traditional) fashion, in order to let the different terroirs talk.

Safres (sand)
The lightest of the four, elegant and floral with a touch of spice, but still has dark, plummy berry and bramble flavours and some savoury tomato and herb characters. Third favourite

Eclats Calcaires (limestone)
Lively, entertaining style with the southern herbs and plush dark fruit balanced by a sprightly minerally spiciness, and a savoury, briny finish. Very tasty. Second favourite

Grès Rouges (red sandstone)
The nose has much of the lightly spicy fruit characters of the Safres but this is a riper, jammier style with a warmer heart, just verging on the baked/raisinny side – wish they’d picked it earlier. Least favourite

Galet Roulés
Rich, confident and complete, warm and rounded, but never jammy with lush loganberry, raspberry and plum flesh, a dusting of cocoa and a lively, intense finish with briny mineral notes. Favourite.