Hugel Classic Pinot Noir 2009, Alsace, France (£13.99 Fenwicks, Ann et Vin, Yorkshire Vintners, Dike and Son, BJR Hanby, www.vintagemarque.com) Nice jolly style, fully mature but still with plenty of piquancy to the ever-so-slightly jammy strawberry flavours, and a touch of spice on the finish. B+