Monthly Archives: August 2008


One of the definitions in my Concise Oxford Dictionary of the word ‘premium’ is ‘of best quality. This seems to have escaped those who sell wine. Today, wines touted as ‘premium’ products are usually bog-standard, entry-level fodder. So what’s above premium? First there was super-premium. Then ultra-premium. Then Icon. This […]

When the best isn’t good enough


A lovely story has broken of how the US magazine Wine Spectator has paraised a restaurant that doesn’t exist. American author Robin Goldstein invented sent details of the fictitious Osterio L’Intrepido in Milan to the magazine, along with a fee of $250 and wasn’t surprised to receive one of the […]

Château N’Existe Pas